Anchoring Practise

Finally, we imagine that the winds have died down, at least our weather program indicates that they should only be about 12 to 15 knots (normal trade wind speeds). Regardless, we have done all that we can in Prony Bay and need to move on. Our choice destination is Mato Island. Mato is a submerged horseshoe shaped reef with a large rock island (the size of a large barn) on one side. There are three sail boats anchored inside the light blue sandy reef and there are kite surfers racing back and forth over any clear space. The weather guy is wrong again, the wind is still pushing 25 knots and there is a 2 foot chop on the water in the anchorage. Well, why can't we anchor on the lee side of the big rock island? It is sheltered from the wind and the water is nice and calm, but after three attempts to get the anchor hooked, we understand why there is no little anchor symbol on the chart... the bottom is smooth rock with no holding. Mato is another beautiful little white sand, blue water location that needs flat calm weather. Off we go to our next choice, the west side of Ouen Island, to hide from the south easterly winds, in the bay of the Turtle. According to our guide books, this should be a good anchorage and it has some interesting things to see and do on land. We anchor once beside a catamaran. The wind comes up and over the hills in front of us and the swell seems to find us too. The catamaran moves on and we decide to move to where it was anchored, closer to shore and maybe out of the swell. Still no peace. We up anchor again and head north along the island's west coast to Bay Ue, it has to be better there! There are three sail boats all hugging the shore line in a row, so we pull up the end of the line and anchor for a sixth time today. There is still strong gusting wind, but no swell. Whew, we can rest here and well deserved after a full day of anchor practise.

We find a great dive location at the small islet Tioae, off shore of the bay. Between the dive (we found Four octopus here!), climbing a shale covered hill to get a bird's eye view of the bay and long walks on the mile long beach picking shells, we manage to spend a couple of peaceful days.

Its time for some company again. Jackster and Oso Blanco are out of the marina now, so we agree to meet them at Island Mbe Kouen. This is our choice of anchorage and it is strongly recommended for winds such as we are "Still" getting. I don't know what kind of boats these guide writers traveled in, but they certainly had to be tiny craft to consider these "recommended" anchorages any kind of good. Mbe Kouen is literally a pile of sand with a reef around it and another reef at a right angle to it. Oh, no, another gorgeous bit of tropical beach and water that could use a big dose of calm weather. But we three boats are hardy sea boats now, so bring on the wind and waves, we can take it! We have pot luck dinner on board Oso Blanco. David plays taxi service with his dingy as it is too windy at 30 plus knots for us to set ours down safely. He is soaked to the skin after bashing through the waves from boat to boat. The evening is full of laughter and good food while the wind huffs and puffs outside our doors. By morning, Oso has exploded their anchoring bridle and all of the chaffing gear on ours is shredded. Eric's creaky voice (from lack of sleep) comes over the radio at 7:00 am "Anybody else had enough yet?" We all had. Jacqui was charged with picking the next anchorage and off we all trooped, two 64 ft Nordhavns and one 54 ft Amel sail boat, to Tiare on the main island of New Caledonia. This turns out to be a more protected bit of water, but sadly still too rough for us to do anything more than dingy to shore for a long beach walk. The sun is at least shining. We make the gruesome discovery of the body of a large turtle washed up on the beach. No visible causes of death, maybe the ingestion of a plastic bag which turtles mistake as jelly fish - their favorite food. The winds have calmed a bit by evening and our local boat gathering on Oso is as boisterous as ever. Why always on Oso? Because Eric and Ann's young son Bear (9 yrs) has all of his entertainment there and doesn't have to be bored with "adult stuff" by coming to either our boat or Jackster.

The next morning dawns, sunny and wouldn't you know it, dead calm! Great! (said with disgust) Glen and I have to head into the marina to get our visas to Australia applied for and inform the proper authorities of our upcoming arrival. This requires internet. Needless to say we are greatly disappointed to think we are going to be missing out on snorkeling and maybe even diving in these wonderful conditions. Oh, but our sadness is short lived as by the time we reach the marina, the ever present wind is happening again and reports from "the Gang" say the water fun, proved negative. So, O.K., fine, we'll go do some work!

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