Merry Christmas and Happy 2010!
Well it has been a while hasn't it. Sorry, but poor internet service is my first excuse and we've been very busy for the balance of the time. I thought that we were supposed to be relaxing!
From La Paz on the Baja, we toured a bit north in the Sea of Cortez and stopped at some wonderful anchorages. The first was at Isla Espirutu, it was so lovely and tropical looking as we pulled to the shallow turquoise water surrounded by shining sandy beaches. I could actually see the anchor set in the sand as we let it down. Mexican anchorages we have since learned are not nearly as snug and calm as what we are used to on the west coast of Canada. There is always a prevailing wind and most often there are swells in the water. But we have learned that our anchor has a powerful hold and we don't worry as it bumps and grinds during the night. The vegitation on the surrounding islands is predominatly desert varieties, but a casual hike across one island educated us to the fact that there are literally hundreds of different cacti and succulents. Everything was green and blooming from the rains in October. Very beautiful. So one day was spent wahing the boat of it's travel salt another day was the island hike and the next day was a scuba dive off of one of the points. We were only in about 20 feet of water, but were amazed at the quantity and quality of marine life. Our new dive compressor works very well and we always have fresh tanks. We traveled to two other anchorages each with their own special points of interest and we never had more than one or two other boats in the same place at one time.
Our next leg took us to the small village of Topolobampo on the west coast of the mainland Mexico. It is very out of the way for recreational boaters so we were the only yacht there. There is an amazing sandspit at the entrance to the main harbour and we anchored here for our first night. There is a national park at the head of the spit that is made up of sand dune like one would see in the largest of deserts. We took our rubber dingy to the head and beached it so we could walk through these awesome dunes. As beautiful as any National Geograph photo, these dunes held the stories of all the creatures living there by the footprints/tracks in the sand. Of course I forgot to take the camera for this jaunt. We moved from this anchorage into the town site and overnighted so we could take a day trip in to Los Mochis about twenty minutes east. Arranging for a taxi ride was fun as the cabbies didn't speak English and our Spanish is very bad but with the help of a young fellow who spoke a bit of English we set everything up. He would accompany us and the cab driver to Los Mochis the next day. Turns out that as I am frantically looking up things in my dictionary to ask as we travel, this young fellow is also looking things up in his dictionary to reply. Still in the Topo area, we next move to an anchorage in a large but very shallow bay on the other side of the town. Shrimping is a very large industry here and the season is open. We of load the whaler as the bay is 7 miles long and head out for a day of exploration. We discover several fishing villages on the perimiter and an island that is home to every sea bird on the coast. Mexico has an abundance of sea birds and they are very entertaining to watch as the fish for their food. This bay is extremely shallow, 2 ft deep for the most part.
From Topo we head south down the coast to another obscure little town on a large bay, Altata. It is a 14 hr trip and we choose to do it overnight as there isn't enough daytime hrs to arrive in daylight. So we dodge large shrimping vessels in the darkness, all inconveniently fishing on our plotted course, and arrive at the mouth of the harbour as dawn is breaking. This entrance is a lot shallower than is recorded (Mexican charts are useless for navigation as they date from the 1700's - no lie!) only 10 ft below our bottom - too close for comfort. We wave down a passing panga (small wooden boat with motor) with a couple of fisherman on board and through our two words of Spanish and lots of sign language we convey that we would like them to show us the best way to get into the harbour and they did. All of the people we have encountered thus far have been extremely friendly and graciously accepting of our inability to comunicate. Once safely on our own again and heading up harbour to the town, 7 miles in, we are met with the colorful site of about 100 pangas fishing for shrimp being pulled along by their billowing sails. At first glance we thought there was a sail boat race going on. It is already a lovely sunny day by the time we have set anchor in front of the rows of resort houses and rinsed off the travel salt from the boat, so we decide to drop the dingy down and go explore the town. As we are doing this a boat load of people come by and after a few opening remarks, invite us to a birthday party. Why not? It has proved to be a very good move as David and Sandra who are very proud of their Mexico, have taken it upon them selves to show us all that they can. We met a bunch of lovely people at the party. Through David and Sandra, we have seen Culican (drug capital of Mexico), we have seen a vegitable farm - employs 400 people, this is where our Canadian super markets get their vegis from (we were presented with a box full of fabulous fresh vegis), we have seen Altata and the surrounding farm land, they introduced us to the finer art of eating in Mexico, have toured us through El Quelite - a magic village (it truly is), they showed us all of the good stuff in Mazatlan and when we retrun to Puerto Vallarta, they and another couple Pedro and Olga will tour us through Guadalajara. We will see a lot more of Mexico than we ever could have on our own.
So from Altata, we again did an overnighter to Mazatlan. Dodging fishing boats all night and arriving at dawn to the mouth of the Marina El Cid. This is our first stay in a marina since leaving La Paz. We have the use of the resort pools, concierge, private beach etc. It is a very nice resort, a short taxi ride from Old Mazatlan which is very picturesque. Cassie and Georgia join us here for Christmas and New Years and since David and Sandra have shown us all of the good stuff in Maztlan, we are able to show all of these wonderful things to our girls. Honestly a good time was had by all. Georgia's wish list included riding horses on the beach and we managed to find an outfit that did that and - wonders never cease - Glen rode with us. Quite fun and nice little horses to ride among all of the sun bathers with the waves curling around the horses' hooves. We met a nice family from Lethbridge who did the ride with us and later came to have happy hour on the boat with us. Sunsets from Mazatlan look amazing, so we spent a couple of evenings getting perfect photos from land points and one day took the whaler out to show the girls Mazatlan from the water ending with a photo session for the sunset from the water perspective. The girls flew home on Jan 3 and on Jan 4 our friends Keith an Trish joined us on the boat. Again we got to show off Mazatlan and then we thrilled them with a night trip down to Puerto Vallarta.
The Puerto Vallarta trip held a couple of suprises on my shift, a squall showing on radar that had me calling Glen up from sleep as I was concerned that there may be rough weather attached - happily only rain. Then I nearly toast a panga as he is out fishing in the blackness without lights and only flips them on as I am on top of him so I have to rapidly pull back the trottles and change direction to miss him, thus drawing Glen up from his sleep again. Now we are into a bit of rough water - slapping on the hull and Keith comes up. All in all, nothing really serious, but it gave us all lots to talk about the next day. We are docked at the Paradise Village Marina in Nuevo Vallarta. Again a lovely resort that we have the use of all facilities. We had a fun few days exploring P.V. with Keith and Trish and then we all flew home to Calgary on Jan 12. We are now into the parts of Mexico where we are encountering boaters that we have met along the way from San Diego down. Amazingly there are a good percentage of Canadian boaters. So we have no fear of getting bored with only ourselves to talk to. I should also have better wi fi access so I can update more often (unless we're too busy exploring!) Talk to you all soon.
